For instance, for a friends and family dinner, we’re doing wild ling cod, we’re taking carrots from the farm and making a carrot amazake, and what goes with that could change daily or it could stay the same. You'll see anything from young fennel to cylindra beets to coriander blossoms to ice lettuce. We have these really beautiful icicle turnips, you’ll see those on the menu. So at the moment the restaurant opens, we’ll have those gold beets, but what they’re gonna go with is really going to depend on what survives in the next week, how we're cooking with it, the other ingredients. The ethos is, we're going after the things that we have that are in season in that moment-we don’t want to change that to try to make things consistent on paper. Meat and seafood will come from other Oregon producers, while wines will come from small family-owned, farm-focused wineries in Oregon and around the world. The Tributary Hotel, where Okta lives, is a 100 year-old restored historic building with eight suites, priced from $975 a night below the restaurant downstairs, there’s a lounge with a wine cellar and bar. In the world of meteorology, okta is a unit of measurement for cloud cover, and Lightner is attuned to how slight shifts in climates, microclimates, and microseasons all affect the harvest.
This is a type of farm-to-table rarely seen in the city that practically invented farm-to-table, where Lightner can grow whatever obscure produce he pleases-a far cry from what you’d find at the grocery store or even at most Portland farmers markets. What sets Okta apart? Other than its chef’s résumé, the restaurant also has its own farm, located just seven miles away, where Lightner himself helps tend to the crops. Okta, the restaurant inside the new boutique Tributary Hotel, opens its doors July 13, with newly-returned-to-Oregon Matt Lightner- the former Castagna chef who moved to New York City in 2011 to open Atera, and went on to earn two Michelin stars and a three-star New York Times review-behind it. One of Oregon’s most anticipated restaurants from a highly lauded chef is scheduled to open this week, not in a trendy Portland neighborhood, but in McMinnville.
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